Motorbike Theft and Security in Spain — Protecting Your Bike

A motorbike is the easiest vehicle in the world to steal. It has no doors to force, it weighs a fraction of a car, and two people can lift a 125cc scooter into a van in under a minute. That is the uncomfortable starting point for anyone who rides in Spain — and it is also the reason a bit of thought about security pays for itself many times over. This guide sets out how bikes and scooters actually get taken, what genuinely slows a thief down, how Spanish theft cover tends to work in practice, and the exact sequence of steps to follow if the worst happens and your bike is gone.

Why a motorbike needs its own security plan

If you have moved to Spain from a country where you drove everywhere, a bike can feel like a small, cheap, low-stakes vehicle. In security terms it is the opposite. A car sits on four wheels, weighs well over a tonne, locks itself, and cannot be picked up. A motorbike balances on a side stand, can be wheeled away by one person, and — unless you have done something about it — is held in place by a steering lock that was never designed to resist a determined attack.

Spain adds a few local factors on top. Bikes and scooters are genuinely popular here: the climate makes year-round riding realistic, city traffic rewards two wheels, and parking a scooter is far easier than parking a car in Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, Palma or Málaga. That popularity means there is a busy second-hand market for bikes and for parts, which is what gives stolen machines their value. It also means dense, well-populated rows of parked bikes in city centres and coastal towns — convenient for riders, and convenient for anyone walking along the line looking for the easiest target.

The other factor is that many expat riders keep a bike at a property that is empty for part of the year. A holiday home, an apartment used for six months, or a villa with a garage that nobody opens between October and April all create the same problem: a valuable, portable object left unattended and unobserved for long stretches. Security that works for a daily commuter is not the same as security that works for a bike left standing for four months.

How motorbikes actually get stolen

Before you spend money on security, it helps to know what you are defending against. Bike theft is not one crime; it is several, and they call for different answers.

Lift and carry

The most common method for smaller machines, and the one riders most often underestimate. Two people lift the bike — steering lock engaged, wheels locked, alarm shrieking, it does not matter — and put it into a van or the back of a pickup. The whole thing can be over in well under a minute. Nothing you attach to the bike alone prevents this. The only reliable answer is securing the bike to something immovable, or removing the opportunity to bring a vehicle alongside it.

Breaking the steering lock and riding away

A steering lock is a convenience feature, not a security device. On many bikes it can be defeated by force in seconds. If the ignition can then be bypassed or the barrel forced, the bike simply rides away — which is quiet, attracts no attention and needs no vehicle. Immobilisers and additional physical locks are the counter to this.

Key and document theft

Increasingly, the easiest route to a bike is the key. Keys taken from a jacket pocket at a café, from a hotel room, from a beach bag, or from a house during a burglary give a thief a bike that starts normally and behaves normally. This is why home security and bike security are the same conversation — our guide to home security and burglary prevention in Spain covers the property side in detail.

Stripping for parts

Sometimes the bike is not taken at all. Wheels, exhausts, bodywork panels, screens, mirrors, ECUs and instrument clusters all have value, and a bike left in a quiet garage or on a dark street can be stripped in place. Attempted theft that leaves the machine damaged but present is a real and often overlooked outcome — one of several reasons to photograph your bike's condition regularly.

Opportunist scooter theft

Small scooters are frequently taken for short-term use rather than resale: ridden a few kilometres, used, then abandoned. These thefts are the least planned and the most preventable, because the person taking the bike is looking for the machine that requires no tools and no effort. A visible chain through the rear wheel is often enough to move them along the row.

Theft of luggage and accessories

Top boxes, panniers, tank bags, helmets left on mirrors, intercoms, satnavs and phone mounts are all taken while the bike stays put. This is a nuisance rather than a disaster, but it is the most frequent thing that happens to a parked bike, and it is almost entirely avoidable by taking valuables with you.

The four layers: deter, delay, detect, recover

Good bike security is not a single product. It is four jobs, and a sensible set-up does something about each of them.

Riders often over-invest in one layer and ignore the others. A €300 chain on a bike in an unlit alley with no anchor point is delay without deterrence. A tracker on a bike with no physical security is recovery without prevention. The most cost-effective set-ups usually combine a modest amount of each: something visible, something hard to cut, something noisy, and something traceable.

Disc locks, chains and U-locks — what actually works

Physical locks are the foundation. Here is what each type does, and where each falls short.

Disc locks

A disc lock clamps onto the brake disc and stops the wheel turning. They are small, light and easy to carry under the seat, which makes them the lock riders actually use rather than the one that stays at home. An alarmed disc lock adds a loud siren if the bike is moved, which is a genuine deterrent in a busy street.

Their limitation is fundamental: a disc lock secures the bike to itself. It stops the bike being ridden away, but does nothing against a lift-and-carry theft. Treat a disc lock as your minimum, everyday, five-second measure — never as your only measure at home or overnight. Always use the reminder cable; riding off with a disc lock fitted is an expensive and occasionally painful mistake.

Chains and padlocks

A hardened chain through the rear wheel and around a fixed object is the single most useful thing most riders can own. The key points to get right are:

• Link thickness matters more than length. Thin chains are cut with hand tools in seconds. A heavy, hardened chain forces a thief to bring larger, slower, more conspicuous equipment.
• Buy the shortest chain that does the job. Excess chain lying on the ground gives a thief something to brace against, and lets them use bolt croppers with full leverage. Keep the chain tight and off the floor.
• Loop it through the rear wheel, not the frame or forks. The rear wheel is harder to remove quickly than the front, and a chain around a fork leg can sometimes be slipped off.
• Check the padlock is as strong as the chain. An integrated lock-and-chain unit from the same maker is usually better matched than a heavy chain with a cheap padlock.
• Look for independent security ratings. Locks tested by independent schemes — Sold Secure in the UK and ART in the Netherlands are the two most widely recognised — are graded by how long they resist attack. A rating is not a promise, but it is far more informative than marketing copy.

U-locks and D-locks

A good U-lock is compact and hard to attack with bolt croppers because there is little room to get jaws around the shackle. The trade-off is reach: a U-lock will often only fit through a wheel and a nearby rail if the geometry is right. Many riders carry a U-lock for daily use and keep a heavy chain at home.

Grip locks, brake-lever locks and wheel clamps

Lever locks clamp the front brake lever to the throttle, preventing the bike being ridden. They are quick, cheap and useful as a second layer, but like disc locks they secure the bike only to itself. Wheel clamps are bulkier but harder to defeat and can be a good option for a bike stored at home for long periods.

Ground anchors and securing the bike at home

Most bikes are stolen from where they normally live, so home is where security effort earns the most. If you own the property, or have a landlord's permission, a ground anchor is the single best upgrade available.

A ground anchor is a hardened steel loop bolted or resin-fixed into a concrete floor or a solid wall. Chained to a proper anchor, a bike cannot be lifted, wheeled or ridden away without cutting through the chain or the anchor. Points to get right when fitting one:

• Fix into concrete or solid masonry, not into tile, screed or a thin slab. In many Spanish garages the floor is solid concrete, which is ideal; in older buildings check what is actually underneath the surface.
• Use security fixings that cannot simply be undone with a spanner, and position the anchor so the bolt heads are covered by the anchor body or the bike itself.
• Position it close to a wall or corner, so the chain sits high and tight with no slack on the floor.
• Consider two anchors if you keep more than one bike, so each is independently secured rather than chained to the other.
• Check the community rules first. In a Spanish apartment block with a communal garage, drilling into the floor of your plaza usually needs the agreement of the comunidad de propietarios. Ask before you drill — it is a short conversation and avoids a long argument.

Beyond the anchor, think about the room itself. A garage door that can be levered in seconds undoes everything inside it. A cover over the bike removes the model, the condition and the accessories from view, which is a surprisingly effective deterrent. Motion-activated lighting and a camera that records to the cloud rather than to a box in the same garage both help. And if the garage has a window, frost it or block the view.

Garage, communal garage or street — where to park in Spain

Where a bike spends its nights is the biggest single variable in its risk profile, and it is also the thing insurers most often ask about.

A private, locked garage

The best option by a distance. It removes the bike from view, adds a physical barrier, and gives you somewhere to fit an anchor. If you have the choice between a property with a garage and one without, and you ride, the garage is worth real money.

A communal underground garage

Common in Spanish apartment blocks and generally good, with two caveats. First, access is shared: anyone with a remote, a resident's key or a following car can get in, and vehicle barriers stay open long enough for a scooter to slip through behind you. Second, communal garages are quiet and unobserved at night, which suits a thief with time. Use a chain and an anchor even underground, and do not assume the barrier is doing the work.

A gated community or private parking area

Better than open street parking, but the same logic applies: a gate deters casual passers-by and does very little against anyone who wants to be inside. Treat it as one layer, not the whole plan.

On-street motorbike bays

Spanish towns and cities commonly provide marked motorbike parking bays, and using them is the sensible choice — parking rules for two-wheelers vary between municipalities, and pavement parking is restricted in many places. From a security point of view, choose bays that are busy, well lit and overlooked, and where possible pick a spot with something solid to chain to. A bike in the middle of a row on a lit street is a less attractive target than the same bike alone around the corner.

On the street outside your home

The most common arrangement and the highest risk, particularly overnight. If it is your only option, stack the layers: chain to a fixed object, alarmed disc lock, cover, tracker, and park where a neighbour or a camera can see the bike. Vary the exact spot if you can — a bike that is always in the same place at the same time is easy to plan around.

Immobilisers, alarms and trackers

Electronics do the jobs physical locks cannot: they detect interference and they help recover a bike after it has gone.

Factory and aftermarket immobilisers

Many modern bikes leave the factory with a transponder immobiliser: the engine will not run unless the correct chipped key is present. This makes hot-wiring far harder and is one reason lift-and-carry theft became more common. If your bike has one, look after the keys — a lost or copied key undoes the protection entirely, and replacing coded keys is expensive.

Older bikes and many scooters have no immobiliser. Aftermarket immobilisers and ignition cut-off switches can be retrofitted, and a well-hidden kill switch is a cheap, effective delay. Anything that involves cutting into the loom should be fitted by a competent mechanic — a botched installation causes electrical faults that are far more annoying than the theft risk it was meant to solve.

Alarms

A bike alarm with a movement or tilt sensor makes noise when the machine is disturbed. In a busy street or a residential garage, noise genuinely works: it attracts attention at exactly the moment a thief wants none. Set the sensitivity properly, though. An alarm that fires every time a bus goes past trains everyone within earshot to ignore it, and will make you unpopular with neighbours. Combined alarm-and-immobiliser systems are common and worth considering on a higher-value bike.

Trackers

A tracker is a small GPS or GSM device hidden on the bike that reports its position. Most are subscription-based. What a tracker realistically offers is:

• Movement alerts — a notification to your phone if the bike moves when it should not, sometimes before you would otherwise notice it is gone.
• A location to give the police — which matters enormously, because a recovered bike is a far better outcome than a claim.
• Evidence of where the bike went, which can help investigators identify storage locations used for multiple machines.

Trackers are not magic. Signal jammers exist, batteries fail, and a device fitted in an obvious place will be found and removed. Fit it somewhere non-obvious, hard-wire it where possible with a backup battery, and consider a second decoy or a second device if the bike is valuable. Also be realistic: recovering a bike depends on police resources and priorities, and you should always report the theft formally rather than attempting to retrieve the machine yourself.

Frame and engine numbers — the paperwork that gets bikes back

This section takes ten minutes and costs nothing, and it is the part most riders skip. If your bike is stolen, the single most useful thing you can hand the police is precise identification.

The frame number (bastidor / NIV)

Every vehicle has a unique Vehicle Identification Number — in Spain the Número de Identificación del Vehículo (NIV), universally called the número de bastidor. The DGT explains in its own guidance on the número de bastidor that it is a unique combination of 17 characters that identifies the vehicle throughout its entire life, that the marking must be applied in a clearly visible and accessible place so it cannot be erased or degraded, and that one of its main uses is identifying stolen vehicles. The DGT also notes the number never contains the letters O, I or Q, so they are not confused with 0, 1 and 9 — useful when you are copying it down.

On a motorcycle or scooter the frame number is typically stamped into the frame around the steering head, on the headstock or on a nearby frame tube, and it also appears on your documentation. On many machines you will need to move a plastic cover or turn the bars to read it. Find it once, in daylight, before you ever need it.

The engine number

Separately, the engine carries its own number, usually stamped into the crankcase. Because engines are removed and sold on, and because a stripped bike may be identified from its engine alone, recording this number as well as the frame number is worth the extra two minutes.

Your documents

The DGT's guidance on vehicle documentation confirms that a vehicle needs a valid permiso de circulación — the document identifying who the vehicle belongs to — and a valid ficha técnica or ITV card, which shows the vehicle has been type-approved for road use. The DGT also states that its miDGT app carries both documents with equivalent legal validity within Spain, which is handy when your paper copies are in a drawer at home.

Do not keep the originals in the top box. A thief who gets the bike and the paperwork together has a much easier time selling it, and you have a much harder time proving what you owned.

The ten-minute record

Create a note on your phone, backed up to the cloud or emailed to yourself, containing:

• Frame number (NIV / bastidor) and engine number.
• Registration (matrícula), make, model, year, colour and engine size.
• Your insurance policy number and the insurer's claims telephone number.
• Photographs from all four sides plus close-ups of anything distinctive — scratches, aftermarket exhaust, luggage, stickers, non-standard levers or screen, tyre make.
• Photographs of the frame and engine number stampings themselves.
• Receipts for the bike and for any accessories, and the details of any tracker or alarm fitted.

Update the photographs once a year, or whenever you change something noticeable. A recent photo set is what turns "a black 125" into an identifiable machine.

Scooters and city riding — the specific risks

Scooters deserve their own section because the risks are different in kind, not just in degree.

A scooter is light. Two people can lift a 125 without difficulty, and one determined person can drag one on its wheels. Scooters usually have small or no brake discs at the rear, limiting disc-lock options, and the underseat storage that makes them practical also makes them a target for whatever was left inside. They are frequently parked in dense rows where a thief can work while shielded from view by the bikes on either side, and they are often the cheapest machine on the street, which means owners spend the least on securing them — precisely the calculation a thief makes too.

City-specific habits that make a real difference:

• Chain to something fixed, every time. Even a five-minute stop. The difference between a scooter that can be wheeled away and one that cannot is the whole game.
• Never leave the helmet on the mirror or in the top box. Helmets walk, and a forced top box damages the bike as well as costing you the contents.
• Empty the underseat compartment. Waterproofs are fine; documents, tools, chargers and sunglasses are not.
• Do not leave the key in the barrel "just for a second". A second is all it takes, and a bike taken with its own key is a much harder conversation with an insurer.
• Use marked motorbike bays and lit streets. Rows of bikes in view of bars, kiosks and residential balconies are watched far more than an empty side street.
• Vary where you park overnight if the bike lives on the street, and avoid leaving it in the same unobserved corner for weeks at a time.
• Cover it for long stays. A cover hides a desirable model and adds a step that thieves dislike.

If you use a scooter for work or deliveries, add one more habit: treat every stop as a parking event. The riskiest moment for a working scooter is the ninety seconds it stands unattended outside an address with the engine running.

Touring, ferries and overnight stops

Away from home you lose your anchor, your garage and your neighbours. A few habits fill the gap.

• Book accommodation with secure parking and confirm what "secure" means before you arrive — a locked courtyard is not the same as a space at the front of the building.
• Carry a lock you will actually use. A compact chain or a decent U-lock that lives in a pannier beats a heavy chain you left at home.
• Park where you can see the bike from your table at lunch, and choose the far side of a motorway service area only if it is the side with people on it.
• Group bikes together and chain them to each other when riding with others. Three bikes linked are much harder to lift than three bikes standing apart.
• Take luggage off overnight. Soft luggage in a hotel room is worth more to you than to anyone else; the same bag on the bike is an invitation.
• On ferries, use the straps and tie-downs provided, remove anything loose, and take your helmet and documents with you to the passenger deck.
• Check your cover before you cross a border. Riding outside Spain, and taking a bike on a ferry, are situations where the geographical limits and conditions of a policy matter — read the terms rather than assuming.

What theft cover commonly involves in Spain

Insurance is the last layer, not the first — but it is the one that determines what happens financially if everything else fails. Here is how theft cover generally works for a bike in Spain, described in general terms. What your own policy does is set out in your policy wording and conditions, and that document is always the authority.

Third party versus wider cover

Motor liability insurance is compulsory in Spain for a vehicle in circulation, and a basic third-party policy is exactly that: it deals with injury and damage you cause to other people. It does not, on its own, deal with your own bike being stolen. Cover for theft is normally either an add-on to a third-party policy or part of a wider comprehensive arrangement. If theft matters to you — and on a bike it usually should — check explicitly that it is included rather than assuming.

Total theft and partial theft

Policies commonly distinguish between the whole bike being taken and parts being stolen from it, and between theft and the damage caused during an attempted theft. Limits, excesses and conditions can differ between these. If you keep a bike on the street, the partial-theft and attempted-theft position is worth reading carefully, because that is the more frequent event.

Declared security and garaging conditions

Spanish motorbike proposals commonly ask where the bike is kept overnight and what security is fitted. Two things follow from that:

• Answer accurately. The information you give forms the basis of the contract. Describing a garage you do not have, or a lock you never use, creates a problem at exactly the wrong moment.
• Some policies attach conditions. Wordings sometimes require specified security to be in use, or require the bike to be garaged between certain hours. Where such conditions exist, they are conditions — not suggestions — and they are set out in the policy document.

Equally, security can work in your favour. Insurers frequently take an interest in an alarm, immobiliser or tracker being fitted, and in the bike living in a locked garage. Mention what you have when you get a quote.

Keys, documents and how the loss happened

How a bike was taken matters. Theft involving your own keys, or a bike left unlocked or unattended with the key in it, is treated differently under most wordings from a bike that was forced. Similarly, leaving the registration documents on the machine is rarely a good idea. None of this is unique to Spain, but it is worth knowing before rather than after.

Valuation, excess and what a settlement looks like

Where a stolen bike is not recovered, a settlement is typically based on the value of the machine at the time of the loss, subject to the policy's basis of valuation and any excess. Modifications and accessories are often treated separately and may need to have been declared. Riders are frequently surprised by how much a bike has depreciated, and by the fact that a much-loved fifteen-year-old machine in exceptional condition is not valued sentimentally. Ask how valuation works before you need to know.

The waiting period after a theft

A stolen bike is not immediately a settled claim, because it may be recovered. The DGT's own guidance for owners of stolen vehicles notes that if the vehicle has not reappeared within a period of 30 days, you can ask your insurance company to treat it as missing and request compensation according to the policy you hold. In practice that means the days after a theft are a waiting game, and staying in contact with both the police and the insurer is the useful thing to do.

What to do the moment your motorbike is stolen

Act in this order. The first few steps take minutes and materially affect what happens next.

1. Make sure it has actually been stolen

The Policía Nacional's own virtual reporting office specifically advises checking, before you report a vehicle as stolen, that it has not been removed by the municipal tow truck or moved by a family member. In Spanish towns, vehicles are towed for street cleaning, markets, roadworks, processions and events, sometimes at short notice. A quick call to the local grúa municipal or the Policía Local can save everyone a great deal of trouble. Look for temporary no-parking signs on the street as well.

2. File the denuncia

A police report — a denuncia — is the foundation of everything that follows. You have three routes:

• In person at a Policía Nacional comisaría or a Guardia Civil post. Take your ID or passport, your vehicle documents if you still have them, and your written record of the frame and engine numbers.
• Online with the Policía Nacional through the Oficina Virtual de Denuncias, which handles vehicle theft among its categories. Note the important condition the service states plainly: the report has no legal validity until it has been signed by you at the police station, and you must sign it at your chosen comisaría as soon as possible and never later than 72 hours.
• Online with the Guardia Civil through its electronic denuncia service, which lists vehicle theft and theft from inside vehicles among the offences it accepts, requires an electronic signature, and is described as fully online without a subsequent visit to ratify it. Certain situations — violence or intimidation, a known offender, witnesses, an offence in progress — must be reported in person instead.

Whichever route you take, give the frame number, the registration and your photographs. Vague descriptions produce vague results. For the wider process, including what a denuncia is used for and what to expect afterwards, see our guide to filing a denuncia in Spain.

3. The DGT is notified for you

This surprises many riders. The DGT's guidance for owners of stolen vehicles states that the security forces communicate the theft to the traffic authorities and process the temporary deregistration (baja temporal por sustracción) at the moment the report is formalised, and that because this happens automatically in the DGT databases there is no need to attend a DGT office. The DGT's electronic office adds two useful details for theft cases: the procedure is free, and the deregistration is of indefinite duration. You can read both on the DGT's stolen vehicle guidance and its baja temporal page.

4. Tell your insurer — quickly

Spanish insurance contract law sets a default deadline that many people do not know about. Under Article 16 of Ley 50/1980, the Insurance Contract Act, the policyholder, insured or beneficiary must notify the insurer of the occurrence of a loss within a maximum of seven days of becoming aware of it, unless the policy sets a longer period. The same law, at Article 17, requires the insured to use the means available to them to reduce the consequences of the loss. You can read the consolidated text on the Boletín Oficial del Estado. In practice: report it the same day, in writing as well as by phone, and keep the reference.

The DGT's guidance echoes this, telling owners to contact their insurer with the report issued by the security forces. Have the denuncia number, the frame number, your policy number and your photographs ready. If you arranged the policy through a broker, contact them and they can point you to the right claims channel.

5. Cover the practical loose ends

• If the keys were taken with the bike, review the security of anything else those keys open — house, garage, top box.
• Tell your tracker provider, if you have one, and give the police the tracking data rather than acting on it yourself.
• Let your community's administrator or your neighbours know if the theft happened from a communal garage; there may be camera footage, and other residents will want to know.
• Keep a written log of every call, reference number and person you speak to. It is invaluable later.
• Do not order a replacement bike on the assumption the claim is settled. Wait until you know where you stand.

6. If the bike is recovered

Tell the police straight away. The DGT states that when the vehicle reappears you should inform the security forces so they can update the original report, note any damage, and take charge of notifying the DGT and restoring the vehicle to active status so it can legally be driven again. Also tell your insurer immediately, and have the bike inspected before you ride it — a recovered machine has often been forced, hot-wired or ridden hard, and damage is not always visible. Check the frame and engine numbers still match your records.

Buying a used bike without buying a stolen one

The other side of bike theft is the second-hand market, and a stolen machine is a disaster for a buyer: it can be seized, and you are unlikely to get your money back. A few checks remove most of the risk.

• Run a DGT vehicle report. The DGT's electronic office offers several vehicle report types. The informe reducido is free and shows the date of first registration in Spain and whether there is any incidence that would prevent transfer or circulation — and you only need the registration or the frame number to request it. Fuller reports, which include ownership history, ITV history, mileage and charges, carry an official fee.
• Check the numbers physically. The frame number stamped on the bike must match the paperwork exactly. Look for grinding, over-painting, re-stamping, mismatched fonts or a riveted plate that looks disturbed.
• Check the documents and the seller. The name on the permiso de circulación should match the seller's ID. Be wary of "selling it for a friend", missing documents, or a price that does not make sense.
• Look at the ignition and locks. A damaged barrel, a replaced lock set or a bike supplied with only one crudely cut key are all reasons to walk away.
• Meet at the registered address rather than a car park, and pay in a traceable way.

The same due-diligence habits apply to any vehicle purchase here — our guides to buying a car in Spain and buying a used car in Spain walk through the documents, checks and transfer process in detail, and most of it translates directly to bikes. Once the bike is yours, registration and ITV are the next two boxes to tick.

Your motorbike security checklist

Work through this once and most of it stays done.

• Find and photograph the frame number and the engine number, and save them somewhere you can reach from your phone.
• Take a full set of photographs of the bike, including anything distinctive, and refresh them yearly.
• Keep the original documents at home, not on the bike; use the miDGT app for the copies you carry.
• Buy a hardened chain and use it through the rear wheel, to a fixed object, kept tight and off the ground.
• Carry a disc lock for every stop, ideally an alarmed one, and always use the reminder cable.
• Fit a ground anchor where the bike lives — with the community's agreement if the garage is communal.
• Consider an alarm, immobiliser or tracker, especially for a higher-value bike or one kept on the street.
• Use a cover for overnight and long-stay parking.
• Park in marked bays, lit streets and busy places, and vary the spot if the bike lives outside.
• Never leave the helmet, luggage or documents on the bike.
• Tell your broker or insurer where the bike is kept overnight and what security is fitted — and update them if it changes.
• Save your insurer's claims number and your policy number in your phone, next to the frame number.
• Know the plan: check it was not towed → denuncia → insurer within the policy deadline → wait for news.

Bike security and property security reinforce each other, so it is worth reviewing them together — most bike keys live in a house, and most bikes live in a garage. And if an incident does happen out on the road rather than in a car park, our guide to what to do after a road accident in Spain sets out the reporting steps.

Frequently asked questions